想必,沒有一個(gè)中國(guó)人不知道揚(yáng)州。 　　但凡一個(gè)讀過(guò)書的中國(guó)人,都學(xué)習(xí)過(guò)中國(guó)散文大家朱自清的《荷塘月色》。那近乎被“寫絕”了的月色,也是揚(yáng)州的景致。“天下三分明月夜,二分無(wú)奈是揚(yáng)州”。從古到今,揚(yáng)州的月色都是很美的。幼時(shí)的朱自清,就是沐著揚(yáng)州如水的月光長(zhǎng)大的。
　　但凡一個(gè)讀過(guò)書的中國(guó)人,也肯定學(xué)習(xí)過(guò)“煙花三月下?lián)P州”的名句。這是中國(guó)大詩(shī)人李白,遠(yuǎn)在武昌黃鶴樓頭送友人孟浩然坐船時(shí),對(duì)煙花三月的揚(yáng)州念念不忘而深情寫下的。
　　這座有著2500多年歷史的古城太有文化。在唐宋,幾乎每個(gè)著名的詩(shī)人都到過(guò)揚(yáng)州。以《春江花月夜》“孤篇壓倒全唐”的作者張若虛,就是揚(yáng)州人;寫下“二十四橋明月夜,玉人何處教吹簫”的杜牧,曾在揚(yáng)州呆過(guò)三年;而寫下千古詠月名詞《水調(diào)歌頭?明月幾時(shí)有》的蘇軾,則在揚(yáng)州當(dāng)過(guò)知州;白居易、歐陽(yáng)修、秦觀等名士才子也都曾在揚(yáng)州生活過(guò)。
　　此外,以“揚(yáng)州八怪”為代表的揚(yáng)州畫派和揚(yáng)州學(xué)派更是在中國(guó)文化領(lǐng)域獨(dú)樹一幟;揚(yáng)州戲曲、揚(yáng)州評(píng)話、玉雕漆器、揚(yáng)派盆景、雕版印刷、淮揚(yáng)菜系等也獨(dú)具特色,源遠(yuǎn)流長(zhǎng)。
　　南北朝時(shí)有句詩(shī)叫做“腰纏十萬(wàn)貫,騎鶴下?lián)P州”,一向都被后人用來(lái)形容揚(yáng)州這個(gè)東南勝地、銷金窩子。余秋雨的《山居筆記》寫到揚(yáng)州時(shí),也用此詩(shī)句來(lái)形容。那時(shí)的揚(yáng)州相當(dāng)于中國(guó)今天的一個(gè)省,治所在建康(今南京)。
　　揚(yáng)州的真正崛起,是在隋煬帝開鑿了大運(yùn)河、揚(yáng)州成為南北水運(yùn)樞紐之后。相傳,當(dāng)時(shí)揚(yáng)州瓊花觀里長(zhǎng)著一株絕美無(wú)比的花,美如白玉,人們喚它瓊花�！熬S揚(yáng)一株花,四海無(wú)同類”。隋煬帝為了看這天下獨(dú)一無(wú)二的瓊花,曾三下?lián)P州。
　　如今,瓊花觀仍在。在揚(yáng)州市區(qū)文昌中路(原瓊花路)的北側(cè),一座古色古香、美輪美奐的道觀矗立在人們面前,就是名聲遠(yuǎn)播的千年古道場(chǎng)瓊花觀。出了瓊花觀,從小路往瘦西湖方向穿去,過(guò)了護(hù)城河,史公祠就到了。揚(yáng)州歷史上最慘烈的日子也展現(xiàn)在了眼前。明朝明臣史可法在揚(yáng)州抗擊清兵,城破身死,清兵在此屠城十日,殺戮了幾十萬(wàn)人,這就是揚(yáng)州史上永遠(yuǎn)銘刻的“揚(yáng)州十日”。
　　因此,揚(yáng)州是一座被詩(shī)泡著的城市,更是一座被血泡過(guò)的城市。然而它卻有著驚人的復(fù)原能力。經(jīng)歷了魏晉南北朝的戰(zhàn)亂,迎來(lái)了隋唐的鼎盛;在南宋數(shù)度成為戰(zhàn)場(chǎng),但只要局勢(shì)稍有和緩,便又迅速得到恢復(fù)發(fā)展;“揚(yáng)州十日”使揚(yáng)州成了一座空城,可到了康乾年間它又擁有了50萬(wàn)人口,而當(dāng)時(shí)世界上人口達(dá)到50萬(wàn)的城市只有10座。
　　史公祠往前不遠(yuǎn)就是天寧寺。揚(yáng)州不但吸引著無(wú)數(shù)的文人墨客,也迷醉著皇帝,康熙五次到揚(yáng)州都住在天寧寺中,曹雪芹的祖父曹寅就在寺前御碼頭接駕四次。乾隆六下江南,五次到揚(yáng)州也是在這上的岸。
　　揚(yáng)州有水。江、河、湖貫穿著這個(gè)城市,世界上最長(zhǎng)的人工運(yùn)河――京杭大運(yùn)河就穿城而過(guò)。揚(yáng)州也有西湖,前面加了一個(gè)“瘦”字。瘦西湖不但苗條,而且蜿蜒裊娜,氣質(zhì)嫻靜,畫舫輕蕩,玉橋橫臥,與杭州西湖相較,當(dāng)是各擅勝場(chǎng),別有一番風(fēng)味。
　　說(shuō)揚(yáng)州,無(wú)法不說(shuō)二十四橋�！扒嗌诫[隱水迢迢,秋盡江南草未凋。二十四橋明月夜,玉人何處教吹簫?”二十四橋的芳名,之所以流傳千載,得益于杜牧的這首名詩(shī)。二十四橋之名,隋代有一個(gè)說(shuō)法,相傳隋楊帝在月夜曾借宮女24人吹蕭于此,故名;唐代也有一個(gè)說(shuō)法。相傳唐代有人在一個(gè)月光如水、清風(fēng)徐徐的夜晚,見到24個(gè)風(fēng)姿綽約的仙女,身披羽紗,酥手托簫,輕啟紅唇,飄上一座小石橋,舒緩柔美的旋律便從24支簫管中緩緩地流淌出來(lái)。此后,小石橋便被稱為“二十四橋”。如今,二十四橋景區(qū)在瘦西湖公園內(nèi),由玲攏花界、熙春臺(tái)、二十四橋、望春樓四組景點(diǎn)構(gòu)成。
　　揚(yáng)州還有美食。“揚(yáng)州炒飯”風(fēng)靡中國(guó)大江南北�；磽P(yáng)菜系是中國(guó)烹飪行業(yè)的一支重要流派,不僅代表了揚(yáng)州的烹飪技藝,也代表了中國(guó)東南部、淮河以南這一廣大區(qū)域的烹飪技藝,故有“東南佳味”之稱。為國(guó)內(nèi)外專家、群眾所公認(rèn),與京、川、粵菜齊名,是中國(guó)主要菜系之一。
　　揚(yáng)州沒有高大的建筑,卻有很多的古樸小巷和古代富賈高官的深宅大院。占地6000多平方米的盧氏舊宅,6進(jìn)青磚黛瓦的樓房和有150年歷史卻依然枝葉茂盛的紫藤,述說(shuō)著這座具有“鹽商第一樓”美譽(yù)的建筑的滄桑經(jīng)歷。
　　這就是揚(yáng)州。它沒有西安、北京等大城市的霸氣,也沒有上海的喧囂,它有的是平民般的親切和婉轉(zhuǎn)曲折、層層疊疊的優(yōu)雅和文化氣息。但是隨手翻閱史書,隨便翻到哪個(gè)朝代,都會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)揚(yáng)州是個(gè)焦點(diǎn)。要么歌舞升平,商賈云集;要么經(jīng)受血與火的洗禮。
　　它像煙花一樣,或絢爛,或毀滅,但始終具備挑動(dòng)人心的魅力。
　　
　　Presumably, every Chinese knows Yangzhou (a city of Jiangsu Province).
　　Every Chinese who attended school had studied the article―Moonlight over the Lotus Pond―written by Zhu Ziqing, a famous Chinese prose master (1898-1948). The perfectly described “moonlight” in Qinghua Park in Beijing can also be found with the same view in Yangzhou. And Zhu Ziqing grew up bathed in Yangzhou’s watery moonlight.
　　Every Chinese who attended school must have learnt the famous poem―“Thou went southward to Yangzhou in the beautiful spring of lunar March”―which was written by Li Bai, a great Chinese poet (701-762A.D.). This famous poem was written to express Li Bai’s passion for the beautiful spring scene of Yangzhou when he saw off his friend Meng Haoran (another famous poet in 689-740 A.D.) at the Yellow Crane Tower of Wuchang(a city of Hubei Province).
　　With a history of more than 2500 years, this ancient city has an extremely deep cultural foundation. In the Tang and Song Dynasties, almost every famous poet had been in Yangzhou at some time. It was Yangzhou that was the hometown of Zhang Ruoxu (a famous poet in about 660-720 A.D.) whose masterpiece―A Moonlit River on Night in Spring―was praised as “one piece surpasses all the poems of the whole Tang Dynasty”. And Du Mu (a famous poet in about 803-852A.D.) who had written a famous poem “Did you play the flute with beauties in the romantic moonlight at the Twenty-fourth Bridge?” had been in Yangzhou for three years. Su Shi (1037-1101A.D.), a ci poet who had created an unprecedented ode to the moonlight―Prelude To Water Melody?When Again Will the Bright Moon Appear―once held a post of “magistrate” in Yangzhou. And other literary celebrities including Bai Juyi (a famous poet in 772-846A.D.), Ou Yangxiu (a famous litterateur in 1007-1073 A.D.) and Qin Guan (a ci poet in1049-1100A.D.), all lived in Yangzhou at some time.
　　In addition, the Yangzhou School of Painting and Yangzhou School of Philosophy represented by the Eight Eccentric Painters of Yangzhou are indeed eccentric in China’s cultural field. Other Yangzhou specialties such as Yangzhou Opera, Yangzhou story-telling, jade-carving lacquer-ware, Yangzhou miniature landscapes, block printing, and Huaiyang cuisine, etc., have many distinguishing features and a long-standing reputation.
　　There was a poem in the Northern and Southern Dynasties (420-589) called “One wishes to fly to Yangzhou on a crane, carrying much wealth for leisure” which was quoted by later generations to describe Yangzhou’s prosperity. When writing about Yangzhou in his Notes of a Mountain Household, Yu Qiuyu (a famous contemporary writer born in 1962), had cited this poem to describe Yangzhou as well. Yangzhou in the Northern and Southern Dynasties was equivalent to a modern Chinese “province”, with Jiankang (today’s Nanjing) as its capital city.
　　 Yangzhou didn’t essentially rise until the Grand Canal was built in the reign of Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty (581-618A.D.) when Yangzhou became a hub for water transportation between north and south. According to legend, there grew an unparalleled beautiful flower called the Wild Chinese Viburnum in the Viburnum Garden of Yangzhou. It was praised as “a flower unparalleled all over the world”. The Emperor Yang of Sui Dynasty came to Yangzhou three times just in order to enjoy this unique flower.
　　

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